New Edinburgh: a runway spectacular
back to featuresThe lights dimmed, an expectant hush gripped the Fashion Loft on Multrees Walk . . . and, as a remix of Soft Cell's eighties' Standard "Tainted Love" set the mood for Keira Thorley's collection of wet-look coats and second-skin jumpsuits...
Such were the memorable opening moments of New Edinburgh a runway spectacle, equal in scale and glamour to any show on the international fashion circuit. Its aim? To highlight the extraordinary wealth of creative talent emerging from the Scottish capital. With an audience of over 600, New Edinburgh proved the best-attended event during the inaugural Edinburgh International Fashion Festival. It also attracted the week's largest contingent of Scottish, UK-national and international media.
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However, New Edinburgh offered more than exposure. It also provided exceptional career-enhancing opportunities for its participants. A special bursary scheme, which I helped set up, enabled four recent fashion graduates to develop new collections specifically for the runway show. As a bridge from academia to commerce, each of these fledgling designers was set the challenge of working, unsupervised, in "real world" conditions against an immovable deadline but supported by a mentoring programme.
Stephen Jones (the acclaimed milliner who is currently British Accessory Designer of the Year), Hilary Alexander (Fashion Director, The Daily Telegraph), and Coco Chan (Contemporary Womenswear Buyer, Harvey Nichols) all generously placed their time and expertise at the disposal of the New Edinburgh designers.
The Scottish Executive match-funded the sponsorship committed to the New Edinburgh initiative by Next plc. Additionally, Harvey Nichols contributed a raft of help in kind, including event management and staffing. Harvey Nichols also provided a pre-show champagne reception, and hosted a VIP after-show party.
As for the show itself, Keira Thorley's collection was followed by that of Chloe Patience wonderfully romantic dresses crafted from printed and embroidered silks. The four remaining passages presented the New Edinburgh bursary collections of Jenny Williamson, Kenneth McClure, Lizzie McQuade and Elliot Atkinson.
Jenny Williamson
Jenny's collection was very much in her own personal image, focusing on exactly the sort of pretty yet engagingly eccentric clothes this former model would love to wear. Her distinctive palette mixed taupe, ivory and chrome yellow or partnered shell pink with sharp tangerine. A print inspired by Buddy Holly's distinctive eyewear was used for ultra-feminine dresses, while striped wool jersey and rich cashmere added textural variety to Jenny's dream of a capsule wardrobe.Kenneth McClure
In his refined, minimalist collection, Kenny reflected recent travels through Cambodia and Vietnam, specifically articulating a respect for the simple habits of Bhuddist monks. This translated into gracious, gently draped tunics and dresses in oyster or silver silk jersey, plus more voluminous shapes in wool and silk worsted often partnered with bone-coloured airspun cashmere knits.Lizzie McQuade
The complex, petal-shaped sections of Lizzie's bell-shaped silhouettes were rendered in coral and marshmallow pink, combined with monochrome tweed, anthracite velour, and jet black boucle. Dainty jackets with short puff sleeves were shown with long black leather gloves. The effect was quirky yet charming.Elliot Atkinson
Elliot revisited the early nineties for an adventurous and powerful collection in which lavender bandage crepe and lilac silk satin were juxtaposed with plaid and faux crocodile-skin. Key elements were over-scaled blouson jackets, worn with leggings, and power-gowns.Two New Edinburgh designers have already received approaches from major high street fashion retailers whose talent scouts attended the show. Two others are now planning to establish their own businesses. Lizzie McQuade has secured a job in the studio of a London-based designer. Elliot Atkinson's collection has been bought by influential London boutique, The Pineal Eye. He has also received a shoal of private orders.
"New Edinburgh," says Jenny Williamson, "was both a wonderful opportunity and a huge challenge: exciting, daunting, and at times utterly terrifying! But the experience has proved invaluable, allowing me to grow as a designer, face a few of my demons, and pursue my dreams."
Lizzie McQuade shares her enthusiasm. "Since the age of ten, all I've ever wanted to do is work as a fashion designer. New Edinburgh allowed me to develop my own handwriting. It was a really great combination of experience and exposure."
Published June 2006. Featured content correct at date of publication.
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